Miter Saw Buying Guide

Miter saw types

Miter saws have evolved from a metal frame that used a specialized handsaw to a power tool that’s essentially a circular saw mounted on an arm that can pivot. Basic miter saws, sometimes called chop saws, have a simple up and down motion and can adjust to various angles relative to the fence, which is the metal backstop on the base of the miter saw.

Compound miter saws let you cut at a bevel as well as an angle, making them ideal for building picture frames or cutting moldings. Both types of miter saws are also available as sliding miter saws, meaning that the blade can be moved forward and backward on its support arm as well as up and down.

If you just need straight cuts and angles for home repair or basic building, a straight miter saw is the best choice. Consider one with sliding action if you need to cut stock that is six inches wide or more. For elaborate finish work or furniture construction, a compound miter saw is the best choice, as it gives you the most precise angles.

Miter saw size

Miter saws are measured by the size of their blades. You can get miter saws in 8”, 10” or 12” sizes, and the price increases rapidly since larger miter saws need more powerful motors and more durable mechanisms. A 10” miter saw is the best choice for general use, as it will handle stock up to 4” thick in a single cut.

Smaller 8” miter saws can be more precise and easier to control, but they can’t cut larger stock unless they have sliding action, so they should be reserved for moldings and thin picture frames. The largest miter saws will make quick work of most cutting jobs, but their higher price tags make them a good investment only for professionals or serious woodworkers who need to cut thick pieces of wood.

Miter gauge and adjustments

The miter gauge and adjustment knobs or levers are what allow you to set a cutting angle with the miter saw. For straight miter saws, the gauge should be etched or stamped either into the top of the base or just beneath it. Compound miter saws have a second gauge that shows the angle of the cut, usually mounted to the side of the saw.

A miter gauge should have clear markings for angles of 0, 22.5, 30 and 45 degrees. Some miter saws include positive stops that click the pivoting mechanism into these positions for quick adjustments, but make sure you can override the stops if you need to make a cut near one of them, say at 43 degrees. The best miter saws have gauges that are stamped deep into the metal so that they won’t wear off over time.

With compound miter saws, you’ll be able to choose between models that can bevel in one or two directions. It’s easier to use a double-bevel miter saw that pivots two ways—especially if you’re left-handed—but you’ll pay extra for that ability.

You should carefully inspect the adjustments on a miter saw. Angle adjustments frequently use a thumbscrew that will securely hold an angle for many years to come. Bevel adjustments typically use a compression screw. Make sure that this screw is secure and durable—you don’t want a compound miter saw to slip because of its weight or from being bumped.

Any miter saw will cut angles up to 45 degrees, but it’s better to choose a miter saw with a wide miter range that extends the available angles to 50 degrees or more. Even if you don’t often cut these angles, you’ll be glad your miter saw can do it when the need arises.

Fences and sights

Many miter saws now offer a “sliding” fence that can adjust to different heights. This is a good feature that provides extra stability if you’re cutting flooring or other woods that are more than 2” wide.

Laser sights are common equipment on almost all miter saws, yet professional users don’t have many positive things to say about them. Some laser sights are inaccurate to begin with; others fall out of alignment over time. Miter saws with two lasers, one on either side of the kerf, offer the best performance, but they’re still no substitute for carefully lining up a cut.

Safety features and extras

Choose a miter saw with electronic braking. This feature reverses the motor when you let go of the trigger, stopping it in about two seconds. Miter saws should be equipped with a trigger release switch that you need to depress in order to squeeze the trigger. Most dual-bevel miter saws have this switch on both sides of the handle, making it easier for left-handed users.

Look for transparent, self-retracting blade guards that snap back into position as soon as the blade is lifted. Miter saw bases should be made of sturdy steel or aluminum and provide enough working surface for you to comfortably position larger pieces of wood.

A miter saw’s blade should have a locking feature that makes it easy to change the blade. In-base storage for the blade wrench keeps everything together. A sawdust bag will prevent some dust from getting into the air, but on most miter saws they don’t do much, so it’s seldom worth seeking out this feature.

Need to know more?

• Power Miter Saw Basics
  http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=18095&pageIndex=1
• Miter Saw 4-Step Tuneup
  http://www.southpointhawaii.com/include/pdf_files/mitersawtuneup.pdf
• Woodworking Plans and Guides
  http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/